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Mallet and Chisel Don'ts
Here are a series of photos that show bad chisel handling techniques. Obviously it is important not to cut yourself (or others) with these razor sharp woodcarving tools and if you don't want to damage your hands there are some other points that you should note.
It is tempting to use the heel of your hand to hammer the handle of the tool, rather than to pick up a mallet. This will lead to what was called "carvers claw" where the fingers are drawn permanently towards the palm of the hand. Believe it or not, the furniture and arechitectural carvers up until quite recently were actually proud of this affliction because it showed their trade.
Full time carving can be tough on the hands, particularly if you don't use a mallet at the roughing out stage. Get into the habit of using a mallet, it will also speed up your work and add a vibrancy to the look of the carving. There are pads available that protect your hands if you are undertaking a lot of detailed finishing especially in harder woods.
Not clamping down your work leads to the accident that is about to happen here, and I have seen this type of handling even with clamps. The gouge is going to skid froward and cause about five stitches. Do you have a half decent first aid kit so that you can tightly bind that cut to avoid getting blood all over the car on the way to the doctors?
Here comes another accident as you clean up the undercutting---use a pen knife, carefully.
Cutting yourself is one thing, stabbing your friends and family is another. Gesturing with a chisel in your hand is dangerous, don't be offended if your colleagues ask for the directions to the timber merchant without that razor sharp number five in your hand.
This shoveling motion is not the way to effectively use a chisel.
Mallet and Chisel Do's
The most important aspects of carving with a gouge are support and control, notice in the following photos how the forearm, fingers and hands are used to assist you in this.
Note that the blade of the tool is held about one and a half inches from the cutting edge and the forearm is supporting the chisel. In this way the outer heel of the hand can be used as a pivot. The hands are firmly hoding the gouge anbd almost opposing each other in tension. With practice and a sharp tool you can burnish the wood as you cut it, and even take a few liberties with the grain.
A typical carving action using a mallet.
Cutting down using a mallet. Note the elbow is tucked into the body and is resting on the carving to offer support and control.
Cutting down without a mallet, again a lot of support from the right hand. You can also use your chest or shoulder to push with.
Here the gouge is reversed and the concave inside of the blade is being used to carve, taking advantage of the convex shape required for this part of the carving.
Note the fingers are supporting the gouge as they rest on the wood and hold the tool at the same time.
It is a good idea to turn the carving around so that you can tackle the grain from the correct direction, however this position is not as crazy or dangerous as it looks. It does however take practice.
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Using a spoon gouge to scoop out the wood here the right hand is used as a support and a fulcrum as the photo below shows the left hand comes across. Note the arms held tightly against the body to assist the control.
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